Johannesburg Black Book
July 2024During my several months in Johannesburg, I discovered a city often overlooked by tourists and underserved by travel resources. While less immediately appealing than Cape Town and demanding more savviness, Joburg rewards the persistent with its entrepreneurial spirit, vibrant creative scene, and meticulously curated spaces.
Navigating Joburg presents challenges: a car is essential due to limited public transport (you can use Uber), and safety concerns necessitate caution, especially in areas like the CBD. Always seek local advice before exploring a new neighborhood.
But don't let this deter you. Joburgers are incredibly friendly and eager to help. Their warmth, combined with the city's dedication to creating inviting, well-designed environments, makes the effort worthwhile.
This guide opens with my favorite addresses, while the latter part provides a comprehensive list of noteworthy spots, offering a broader perspective on this complex, rewarding city.
All text and photography by Flavie Halais.
Navigating Joburg presents challenges: a car is essential due to limited public transport (you can use Uber), and safety concerns necessitate caution, especially in areas like the CBD. Always seek local advice before exploring a new neighborhood.
But don't let this deter you. Joburgers are incredibly friendly and eager to help. Their warmth, combined with the city's dedication to creating inviting, well-designed environments, makes the effort worthwhile.
This guide opens with my favorite addresses, while the latter part provides a comprehensive list of noteworthy spots, offering a broader perspective on this complex, rewarding city.
All text and photography by Flavie Halais.
Featured
In the unassuming Brixton neighbourhood, Breezeblock has carved out a niche as a local hangout for Johannesburg's creative set. Housed in a building it shares with — and was redesigned by — Local Studio, the café offers a relaxed atmosphere conducive to remote work, with a spacious patio that comes alive in warmer months (look out for Charles Leonard’s DJ sets on weekends.) Its backup power was a godsend during the most intense stages of loadshedding.
In Braamfontein, a vibrant student hub near Wits University, a building renovated by architecture firm Local Studio (@local_studio) houses trendsetting tenants including Abstract Coffee Club (@abstractcoffeeclub), Boys of Soweto (@boys_of_soweto_) clothing, and 99 Design's concept store (@99design.store), showcasing the area's emerging creative scene.
99 Design
The Zone in Rosebank has evolved into a burgeoning commercial, office and entertainment district, and one of Joburg's few walkable neighbourhoods. One of my go-to spots here is Proud Mary, an all-day restaurant, café and bar anchoring a new development housing a boutique hotel and coworking space above. I love this place for its versatility and tasteful design. It's also a prime location for people-watching. During golden hour, the sunlight streams through the windows, making everything — and everyone — look more glamorous, if that's even possible.
EGG
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank (also in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront and Cavendish Square)
@weare_egg
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank (also in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront and Cavendish Square)
@weare_egg
Tucked away on the second floor of a building off The Zone's main pedestrian artery is EGG, South Africa's modern take on the classic department store. This smartly curated space champions Africa's design vanguard, stocking a sharp edit of men's and women's fashion, beauty essentials, and home objects. The bright interior and attentive staff create an inviting atmosphere for discovery. EGG serves as a barometer for the continent's creative pulse, making it a key stop for those tracking African design trends.
EGG
Opened in 2020, the Joburg Contemporary Art Foundation occupies a former tram depot repurposed by StudioMAS. The non-profit blends academic research with thought-provoking exhibitions. What sets JCAF apart is its approach to curation, challenging Western-centric narratives through guided tours that encourage personal engagement and critical analysis of the displayed works. Remember to book in advance – entrance is free, but by reservation only.
Helmed by renowned ceramist Kim Sacks, this multi-level space houses a diverse collection of artisanal works, from ceramics and textiles to wood-carved objects, sourced directly from skilled craftspeople across the continent. Sacks' curatorial approach, rooted in close relationships with artisans, ensures an ever-evolving treasure trove of homeware and decorative pieces. If you're feeling inspired, check out the adjacent school where you can try your hand at various crafts. That’s where my journey with clay began, under Kim’s benevolent guidance.
Kim Sacks Gallery
Designed by StudioMAS, Keyes Art Mile is a vibrant building complex housing art galleries, restaurants (including the renowned Marble), a chic cocktail bar, and an exclusive members club for entrepreneurs. Visit during First Thursdays, a monthly gallery-hopping event, to immerse yourself in the city's cultural pulse.
Joburgers have fallen hard for this 24/7 culinary hub tucked behind a petrol station (!) at Keyes Art Mile. The hybrid space combines a convenience store, deli, and gourmet takeaway, offering a globe-trotting menu that satisfies any palate at any hour. Whether it's a latte, a scoop of ice cream or a portion of wagyu biltong (the staple South African dried meat snack), there's always a good excuse to stop by.
In Johannesburg's Lorentzville district, Victoria Yards repurposes a 1913 steam laundry into a vibrant creative hub. The mixed-use development combines artist studios, artisan workshops, urban gardens and eateries in an industrial setting. The monthly open day is when the precinct really comes alive – it's a chance to peek into the workspaces of resident artists and artisans, and pick up unique pieces from the craft market upstairs.
Primal distillery, located on the grounds of Victoria Yards
Located 45 minutes from Johannesburg's center, NIROX Sculpture Park offers a 15-hectare canvas for contemporary art. Managed by the NIROX Foundation, the park features an ever-changing outdoor sculpture exhibition set against a beautifully landscaped backdrop. Dining options include a small café, as well as the popular "And then there was fire" restaurant. The park doubles as a residency program, hosting both local and international artists.
NIROX Sculpture park
Once the poster child for urban regeneration, Maboneng has evolved into a more authentic creative district on the eastern edge of Johannesburg's CBD. A dense neighbourhood that once served as a manufacturing hub, it now features artist studios and galleries, alongside bars and clubs that contribute to its vibrant nightlife. Despite past economic challenges and a recent change in ownership, Maboneng continues to attract young South African artists and entrepreneurs. Visitors should also explore nearby Jewel City, a recent development in the former diamond district that showcases Johannesburg's efforts to provide affordable inner-city housing while maintaining a vibrant, mixed-use environment.
Maboneng
Jewel City
While South African wines have proven their world-class status, the local market is often dominated by large commercial producers. Enter Acid, a female-owned neighbourhood bar in Parktown North that's become my favourite spot for exploring the country's more interesting vintages. Their rotating selection focuses on organic and low-intervention wines, with an emphasis on female and BIPOC winemakers, while the ever-changing menu features a selection of snacks and small plates with Asian and French influences.
In a city where public spaces are at a premium, 44 Stanley carves out its own niche. This former 1930s industrial complex now houses an eclectic mix of retailers catering to the creative class, nestled around tree-lined alleys and tranquil courtyards. The homegrown textiles brand Mungo (@mungodesign), vintage bookstore L'Elephant Terrible (@terrible.elephant), and specialty coffee shop Bean There (@beantherecoffee) are among my favourites. While some view it as a harbinger of gentrification, 44 Stanley provides a safe and enjoyable environment for shopping and leisure – an unfortunate necessity in Joburg, but one that's executed with style and charm here.
44 Stanley
Joburg CBD
Full list
Galleries
BKhz
Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank
@bkhz
David Krutz Gallery and Bookstore
151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@davidkrutbookstore
Everard Read and Circa
6 Jellicoe Avenue, Rosebank
@everard_read_johannesburg
Gallery Momo
52 7th Ave, Parktown North
@gallerymomo
Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank
@bkhz
David Krutz Gallery and Bookstore
151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@davidkrutbookstore
Everard Read and Circa
6 Jellicoe Avenue, Rosebank
@everard_read_johannesburg
Gallery Momo
52 7th Ave, Parktown North
@gallerymomo
Goodman Gallery
163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@goodmangallery
Kalashnikov gallery
72 6th St, Parkhurst, Randburg
@kalashnikovvgallery
Stevenson Johannesburg
46 7th Ave, Parktown North
@stevenson_za
163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@goodmangallery
Kalashnikov gallery
72 6th St, Parkhurst, Randburg
@kalashnikovvgallery
Stevenson Johannesburg
46 7th Ave, Parktown North
@stevenson_za
Circa gallery
Shops
Always Welcome
Designer-led store featuring South African furniture, homeware and decor.
17 Commerce Cres, Kramerville
(Also at 108 Shortmarket St, Cape Town)
@always_welcome_store
Designer-led store featuring South African furniture, homeware and decor.
17 Commerce Cres, Kramerville
(Also at 108 Shortmarket St, Cape Town)
@always_welcome_store
Ardmore Design
High-end, delicate tableware and decor, crafted by SA-based artisans.
Hyde Square Center, Hyde Park
@ardmore
High-end, delicate tableware and decor, crafted by SA-based artisans.
Hyde Square Center, Hyde Park
@ardmore
Amatuli
Multi-level emporium showcasing furniture and decor from across the African continent.
6 Desmond Rd, Kramerville
@amatuliartefacts
Multi-level emporium showcasing furniture and decor from across the African continent.
6 Desmond Rd, Kramerville
@amatuliartefacts
Kim Sacks Gallery and Ceramics Craft Art School
A curated showcase of African artisanal crafts, doubling as a vibrant ceramics school.
153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@kimsacksgallery
A curated showcase of African artisanal crafts, doubling as a vibrant ceramics school.
153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood
@kimsacksgallery
EGG
Modern department store focusing on African fashion, design and beauty brands.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
(Also in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront and Cavendish Square)
@weare_egg
Modern department store focusing on African fashion, design and beauty brands.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
(Also in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront and Cavendish Square)
@weare_egg
Mungo
Quality textiles for the home, designed and woven in South Africa.
44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf
@mungodesign
Quality textiles for the home, designed and woven in South Africa.
44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf
@mungodesign
Pantry by Marble
A 24/7 gourmet food hub tucked behind a gas station, serving diverse comfort foods and artisanal treats.
170 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank
@pantry_jhb
A 24/7 gourmet food hub tucked behind a gas station, serving diverse comfort foods and artisanal treats.
170 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank
@pantry_jhb
Tshepo
High-end denim designed and made in South Africa.
Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park
Victoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville
@tshepojeans
High-end denim designed and made in South Africa.
Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park
Victoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville
@tshepojeans
Tshepo
Coffee shops
Bean There
A coffee shop and roastery sourcing ethically-produced African beans.
44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf
@beantherecoffee
A coffee shop and roastery sourcing ethically-produced African beans.
44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf
@beantherecoffee
Breezeblock
A creative hub in Brixton, serving tasty eats in architect-designed digs
29 Chiswick St, Brixton
@breezeblockbrixton
A creative hub in Brixton, serving tasty eats in architect-designed digs
29 Chiswick St, Brixton
@breezeblockbrixton
Father Coffee
Espresso bar and roastery with an impossibly cool-looking clientele.
19 Dartfield Road, Kramerville
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@father_coffee
Espresso bar and roastery with an impossibly cool-looking clientele.
19 Dartfield Road, Kramerville
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@father_coffee
Bars and restaurants
Bars and restaurants tend to open up and shut down at a rapid pace. Be sure to check whether they’re still open before you go.
Acid
Acid
A female-owned bar championing South African natural wines and diverse winemakers.
19 4th Ave, Parktown North
@acid_thebar
A female-owned bar championing South African natural wines and diverse winemakers.
19 4th Ave, Parktown North
@acid_thebar
Olives and Plates Hyde Park
A chic lunch spot with a stunning view, located in an upscale mall.
Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park
@olives_and_plates
A chic lunch spot with a stunning view, located in an upscale mall.
Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park
@olives_and_plates
MAMASAMBA
A hip, tropical-themed bar serving sturdy cocktails and elevated finger food.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@mamasamba.sa
A hip, tropical-themed bar serving sturdy cocktails and elevated finger food.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@mamasamba.sa
Proud Mary
A stylish all-day eatery and bar beneath a boutique hotel.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@proudmary_sa
A stylish all-day eatery and bar beneath a boutique hotel.
The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank
@proudmary_sa
Pablo House
A secluded boutique hotel doubling as a quiet brunch spot.
3 4th Ave, Melville
@pablohousehotel
A secluded boutique hotel doubling as a quiet brunch spot.
3 4th Ave, Melville
@pablohousehotel
Tours
Ponte City
Taking a guided tour is one of the safest ways to explore Joburg, especially the CBD.
Johannesburg Heritage Foundation
@johannesburg_heritage
@johannesburg_heritage
Focusing on the city’s history, architecture and urban fabric, these tours often grant exclusive access to private locations.
Ponte City with Dlala Nje
@dlalanje
@dlalanje
Visit this peculiar high-rise building with Dlala Nje, a community organization led by a young, cheerful team. I recommend taking the double tour that includes the nearby neighbourhood of Hillbrow.
Micro-Adventure Tours
@microadventuretours
@microadventuretours
Walking and cycling tours with Kennedy Welani Tembo, whose love and enthusiasm for Joburg is highly contagious.
Markets
A Saturday market in Braamfontein catering to a young, urban crowd.
A vast, family-friendly weekend market located on the edge of the Modderfontein Nature Reserve.
This seasonal event, taking place on the grounds of Johannesburg’s botanical gardens, features lots of local vendors and plenty of food options.