https://flaviehalais.com Flavie Halais Thu, 25 Jul 2024 01:31:39 +0000 https://flaviehalais.com en http://flaviehalais.com/Johannesburg-black-book Thu, 25 Jul 2024 01:31:39 +0000 Flavie Halais 453811 Home Johannesburg Black BookJuly 2024 During my several months in Johannesburg, I discovered a city often overlooked by tourists and underserved by travel resources. While less immediately appealing than Cape Town and demanding more savviness, Joburg rewards the persistent with its entrepreneurial spirit, vibrant creative scene, and meticulously curated spaces. Navigating Joburg presents challenges: a car is essential due to limited public transport (you can use Uber), and safety concerns necessitate caution, especially in areas like the CBD. Always seek local advice before exploring a new neighborhood. But don't let this deter you. Joburgers are incredibly friendly and eager to help. Their warmth, combined with the city's dedication to creating inviting, well-designed environments, makes the effort worthwhile. This guide opens with my favorite addresses, while the latter part provides a comprehensive list of noteworthy spots, offering a broader perspective on this complex, rewarding city.All text and photography by Flavie Halais. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/1deba47a433c37d78cbc5be7192b06bc4be5f2152b9f872eb72e8a50bf96a0be/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6901.jpg" data-mid="1373113" border="0" /> FeaturedBreezeblock29 Chiswick St, Brixton @breezeblockbrixton In the unassuming Brixton neighbourhood, Breezeblock has carved out a niche as a local hangout for Johannesburg's creative set. Housed in a building it shares with — and was redesigned by — Local Studio, the café offers a relaxed atmosphere conducive to remote work, with a spacious patio that comes alive in warmer months (look out for Charles Leonard’s DJ sets on weekends.) Its backup power was a godsend during the most intense stages of loadshedding. 99 Juta99 Juta St, Braamfontein @99juta In Braamfontein, a vibrant student hub near Wits University, a building renovated by architecture firm Local Studio (@local_studio) houses trendsetting tenants including Abstract Coffee Club (@abstractcoffeeclub), Boys of Soweto (@boys_of_soweto_) clothing, and 99 Design's concept store (@99design.store), showcasing the area's emerging creative scene. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/1bb9cf3f84dcd1c4aeb8aee9f9e60b2f6c9ce0364fd21d0d68103e998e2998ee/FHalais-2023-01-24-DSCF6723.jpg" data-mid="1373114" border="0" />99 Design Proud MaryThe Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank @proudmary_sa The Zone in Rosebank has evolved into a burgeoning commercial, office and entertainment district, and one of Joburg's few walkable neighbourhoods. One of my go-to spots here is Proud Mary, an all-day restaurant, café and bar anchoring a new development housing a boutique hotel and coworking space above. I love this place for its versatility and tasteful design. It's also a prime location for people-watching. During golden hour, the sunlight streams through the windows, making everything — and everyone — look more glamorous, if that's even possible. EGGThe Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank (also in Cape Town’s V&amp;A Waterfront and Cavendish Square) @weare_egg Tucked away on the second floor of a building off The Zone's main pedestrian artery is EGG, South Africa's modern take on the classic department store. This smartly curated space champions Africa's design vanguard, stocking a sharp edit of men's and women's fashion, beauty essentials, and home objects. The bright interior and attentive staff create an inviting atmosphere for discovery. EGG serves as a barometer for the continent's creative pulse, making it a key stop for those tracking African design trends. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/c6869eee08617255f05f7da02a6549993e2019a791ddaccbabafd302a2cdd827/FHalais-2023-02-18-DSCF7129.jpg" data-mid="1373128" border="0" />EGG JCAFNo 1 Durris Rd, Forest Town @foundation_jcaf Opened in 2020, the Joburg Contemporary Art Foundation occupies a former tram depot repurposed by StudioMAS. The non-profit blends academic research&nbsp;with thought-provoking exhibitions. What sets JCAF apart is its approach to curation, challenging Western-centric narratives through guided tours that encourage personal engagement and critical analysis of the displayed works. Remember to book in advance – entrance is free, but by reservation only. Kim Sacks Gallery and Ceramics Craft Art School153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood @kimsacksgallery Helmed by renowned ceramist Kim Sacks, this multi-level space houses a diverse collection of artisanal works, from ceramics and textiles to wood-carved objects, sourced directly from skilled craftspeople across the continent. Sacks' curatorial approach, rooted in close relationships with artisans, ensures an ever-evolving treasure trove of homeware and decorative pieces. If you're feeling inspired, check out the adjacent school where you can try your hand at various crafts. That’s where my journey with clay began, under Kim’s benevolent guidance. <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/eef3e8960a8e13d32a1d176aeb05f1358000a678398c24cf38bf728d63cbe3e4/FHalais-2023-02-11-DSCF7072-2.jpg" data-mid="1373120" border="0" /> &nbsp; Kim Sacks Gallery Keyes Art Mile21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank @keyesartmile Designed by StudioMAS, Keyes Art Mile is a vibrant building complex housing art galleries, restaurants (including the renowned Marble), a chic cocktail bar, and an exclusive members club for entrepreneurs. Visit during First Thursdays, a monthly gallery-hopping event, to immerse yourself in the city's cultural pulse. Pantry by Marble170 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank @pantry_jhb Joburgers have fallen hard for this 24/7 culinary hub tucked behind a petrol station (!) at Keyes Art Mile. The hybrid space combines a convenience store, deli, and gourmet takeaway, offering a globe-trotting menu that satisfies any palate at any hour. Whether it's a latte, a scoop of ice cream or a portion of wagyu biltong (the staple South African dried meat snack), there's always a good excuse to stop by. Victoria Yards16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville @victoria_yards In Johannesburg's Lorentzville district, Victoria Yards repurposes a 1913 steam laundry into a vibrant creative hub. The mixed-use development combines artist studios, artisan workshops, urban gardens and eateries in an industrial setting. The monthly open day is when the precinct really comes alive – it's a chance to peek into the workspaces of resident artists and artisans, and pick up unique pieces from the craft market upstairs. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/d71a7cfff905f7be88f06df825bcef6b66b568122d9dffeabd55536a2731c798/FHalais-2023-02-05-DSCF6990.jpg" data-mid="1373127" border="0" />Primal distillery, located on the grounds of Victoria Yards NIROX Sculpture park24 Kromdraai Rd, Cradle of Humankind @niroxfoundation Located 45 minutes from Johannesburg's center, NIROX Sculpture Park offers a 15-hectare canvas for contemporary art. Managed by the NIROX Foundation, the park features an ever-changing outdoor sculpture exhibition set against a beautifully landscaped backdrop. Dining options include a small café, as well as&nbsp;the popular "And then there was fire" restaurant. The park doubles as a residency program, hosting both local and international artists. <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/3ac92957e4ea45c29825b6a0e3b4eed2520a174acbb795c57592c968918cdd8c/FHalais-2023-02-19-DSCF7148.jpg" data-mid="1373122" border="0" />NIROX Sculpture park <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/0191fe3ec429c7240b6b249b53a43115c8ed59fa8cb41598044b3264ff70ebf7/FHalais-2023-02-19-DSCF7157.jpg" data-mid="1373123" border="0" /> Maboneng precinct and Jewel CityFox St &amp;, Kruger St, City and Suburban @maboneng Once the poster child for urban regeneration, Maboneng has evolved into a more authentic creative district on the eastern edge of Johannesburg's CBD. A dense neighbourhood that once served as a manufacturing hub, it now features artist studios and galleries, alongside bars and clubs that contribute to its vibrant nightlife. Despite past economic challenges and a recent change in ownership, Maboneng continues to attract young South African artists and entrepreneurs. Visitors should also explore nearby Jewel City, a recent development in the former diamond district that showcases Johannesburg's efforts to provide affordable inner-city housing while maintaining a vibrant, mixed-use environment. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/26ec8089e86246553469a153867e1f4fd4fc33042bc8a68f194fd5814c87270a/FHalais-2023-12-02-DSCF7997.jpg" data-mid="1373132" border="0" />Maboneng <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/996cd6c18421f38f99ec91910fd69872c7899be7f04b2b9044565bb25a868b99/FHalais-2023-12-02-DSCF8093.jpg" data-mid="1373130" border="0" />Jewel City Acid Food &amp; Wine Bar19 4th Ave, Parktown North @acid_thebar While South African wines have proven their world-class status, the local market is often dominated by large commercial producers. Enter Acid, a female-owned neighbourhood bar in Parktown North that's become my favourite spot for exploring the country's more interesting vintages. Their rotating selection focuses on organic and low-intervention wines, with an emphasis on female and BIPOC winemakers, while the ever-changing menu features a selection of snacks and small plates with Asian and French influences. 44 Stanley44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf @44stanley_avenue In a city where public spaces are at a premium, 44 Stanley carves out its own niche. This former 1930s industrial complex now houses an eclectic mix of retailers catering to the creative class, nestled around tree-lined alleys and tranquil courtyards. The homegrown textiles brand Mungo (@mungodesign), vintage bookstore L'Elephant Terrible (@terrible.elephant), and specialty coffee shop Bean There (@beantherecoffee) are among my favourites. While some view it as a harbinger of gentrification, 44 Stanley provides a safe and enjoyable environment for shopping and leisure – an unfortunate necessity in Joburg, but one that's executed with style and charm here. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/83906cc790a0d0e98d75552168ad1549b012b89f20263aa0e714561a123a8656/FHalais-2023-02-16-DSCF7113.jpg" data-mid="1373124" border="0" />44 Stanley <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/8dc0bc754f27883b57a2d1a6558bd3c1af173886b243e29808417cfa81f3e4f4/FHalais-2023-03-18-DSCF7464.jpg" data-mid="1373167" border="0" />Joburg CBD Full list Galleries BKhz Keyes Art Mile, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank @bkhz David Krutz Gallery and Bookstore 151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood @davidkrutbookstore Everard Read and Circa 6 Jellicoe Avenue, Rosebank @everard_read_johannesburgGallery Momo 52 7th Ave, Parktown North @gallerymomo Goodman Gallery 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood @goodmangallery Kalashnikov gallery 72 6th St, Parkhurst, Randburg @kalashnikovvgallery Stevenson Johannesburg 46 7th Ave, Parktown North @stevenson_za <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/18b23cce80c7875800bfc85d0a13c617a74a970ec334a9882a9699b7e3090f1d/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6813.jpg" data-mid="1373146" border="0" />Circa gallery <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/3d09426ef5e02e4ecffabdcf1878d3c17d16208bbb5910eb183b0eddd4cae583/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6831.jpg" data-mid="1373165" border="0" /> Shops Always WelcomeDesigner-led store featuring South African furniture, homeware and decor. 17 Commerce Cres, Kramerville (Also at 108 Shortmarket St, Cape Town) @always_welcome_store Ardmore DesignHigh-end, delicate tableware and decor, crafted by SA-based artisans. Hyde Square Center, Hyde Park @ardmore AmatuliMulti-level emporium showcasing furniture and decor from across the African continent. 6 Desmond Rd, Kramerville @amatuliartefacts Kim Sacks Gallery and Ceramics Craft Art School A curated showcase of African artisanal crafts, doubling as a vibrant ceramics school. 153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood @kimsacksgallery EGGModern department store focusing on African fashion, design and beauty brands. The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank (Also in Cape Town’s V&amp;A Waterfront and Cavendish Square) @weare_egg Love BooksJohannesburg’s best independent bookstore. 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville @lovebooksjozi MungoQuality textiles for the home, designed and woven in South Africa. 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf @mungodesign Pantry by MarbleA 24/7 gourmet food hub tucked behind a gas station, serving diverse comfort foods and artisanal treats. 170 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank @pantry_jhb TshepoHigh-end denim designed and made in South Africa. Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &amp;, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park Victoria Yards, 16 Viljoen St, Lorentzville @tshepojeans <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/f07dc7063fcd93f7653c39f06dd9272ee816549219a4b805593f55173caf6a6e/FHalais-2023-03-01-DSCF7196.jpg" data-mid="1373162" border="0" />Tshepo <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/5a2b029d5885104827ebb56017af8ed9577e35c7cc30eb93124bc8ba6d3507b8/FHalais-2023-03-01-DSCF7188.jpg" data-mid="1373142" border="0" data-scale="100"/> Coffee shops Bean ThereA coffee shop and roastery sourcing ethically-produced African beans. 44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf @beantherecoffee BreezeblockA creative hub in Brixton, serving tasty eats in architect-designed digs 29 Chiswick St, Brixton @breezeblockbrixton Croft &amp; CoSpacious and cozy neighbourhood café and lunch spot. 66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview @croftandco Father Coffee Espresso bar and roastery with an impossibly cool-looking clientele. 19 Dartfield Road, Kramerville The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank @father_coffee Bars and restaurantsBars and restaurants tend to open up and shut down at a rapid pace. Be sure to check whether they’re still open before you go.<img width="1596" height="2000" width_o="1596" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/44749ebe7bef7c6fb54fd497917e510f408c7baada4e949370fac28ae131da87/BFEEDD6D-1B4D-45DE-8E8F-E4B77CCCA50E.jpg" data-mid="1373135" border="0" /> Acid AcidA female-owned bar championing South African natural wines and diverse winemakers. 19 4th Ave, Parktown North @acid_thebar Olives and Plates Hyde ParkA chic lunch spot with a stunning view, located in an upscale mall. Hyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave &amp;, Corner Winnie Mandela Dr, Hyde Park @olives_and_plates MAMASAMBAA hip, tropical-themed bar serving sturdy cocktails and elevated finger food. The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank @mamasamba.sa Proud MaryA stylish all-day eatery and bar beneath a boutique hotel. The Zone, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank @proudmary_sa Pablo HouseA secluded boutique hotel doubling as a quiet brunch spot. 3 4th Ave, Melville @pablohousehotel Sin+TaxA nice bar. Corner of Bolton &amp; Jan Smuts Roads, Rosebank @sin_tax_bar Tours <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/33e4819be23c2c2ff641047cb61598177fd04ffb739b2259538a38a4f9685ab7/FHalais-2023-03-19-DSCF7495.jpg" data-mid="1373161" border="0" />Ponte City Taking a guided tour is one of the safest ways to explore Joburg, especially the CBD. Johannesburg Heritage Foundation @johannesburg_heritage Focusing on the city’s history, architecture and urban fabric, these tours often grant exclusive access to private locations. Ponte City with Dlala Nje @dlalanje Visit this peculiar high-rise building with Dlala Nje, a community organization led by a young, cheerful team. I recommend taking the double tour that includes the nearby neighbourhood of Hillbrow. Micro-Adventure Tours @microadventuretours Walking and cycling tours with Kennedy Welani Tembo, whose love and enthusiasm for Joburg is highly contagious. <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/90de874457c5b87c09b42c175d94fa9399ad4608976a179aa3fae0586b70e77d/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6838.jpg" data-mid="1373163" border="0" /> <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/11e811c7773ccfc8eb2fc8e9abd89cf2f2c75bd12283aca15cdfda788cf37117/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6892.jpg" data-mid="1373164" border="0" /> <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/996dccfdb56d5899a5a22de705d97fe621e5145387c11279dce5d4b689b17f09/FHalais-2023-01-28-DSCF6846.jpg" data-mid="1373139" border="0" /> Johannesburg city hall, photographed during a tour with the Joburg Heritage Foundation. The new council chamber, completed in 2016, was designed by StudioMAS. Markets The Playground Market 73 Juta St, Braamfontein @play_braam A Saturday market in Braamfontein catering to a young, urban crowd. 4 Ways Farmers Market Taroko Farm, Norfolk Lane, Modderfontein @4waysfarmersmarket A vast, family-friendly weekend market located on the edge of the Modderfontein Nature Reserve. Linden Market 45 Thomas Bowler St, Franklin Roosevelt Park, Emmarentia, Randburg @thelindenmarket This seasonal event, taking place on the grounds of Johannesburg’s botanical gardens, features lots of local vendors and plenty of food options. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/102538c4d508b861383469e0e5e8b59e335d8ac4b2695e7e42c9c59ae2be4058/FHalais-2023-12-02-DSCF8008.jpg" data-mid="1373144" border="0" data-scale="100"/> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/299b3621827f7d5878e6f51bc825537f8db810071d7ce6867ecbfb7901aeeade/FHalais-2023-01-13-DSCF6634.jpg" data-mid="1373136" border="0" data-scale="100"/> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/c8212d2e486d41ce9269f3b0b8d202fcf4eb33d8e45a53b35b98e5b19ed07863/FHalais-2023-12-02-DSCF7835.jpg" data-mid="1373145" border="0" data-scale="100"/> <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/70567e90dbaa28c23c3803e58051d2b491c15862c01f68d6612b9837cfc8e7a3/IMG_4153.jpg" data-mid="1373222" border="0" /> <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/e4db2994ba0db673fd31e6f1dc9c4d6e31fed4ac1a3e492ab688d131cb04aab3/IMG_4155.jpg" data-mid="1373223" border="0" /> <img width="1429" height="2000" width_o="1429" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/6347d426bc0caff727d423f1f86454e1d28017b353cf7c830c3b4aae3078a314/FHalais-2023-10-29-DSCF7722.jpg" data-mid="1373221" border="0" /> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/9ed2841270ec4de3097af42e2895672c286c1536f8e3f67ecfc8ec48d761dd8e/FHalais-2023-12-02-DSCF8156.jpg" data-mid="1373143" border="0" /> Home Johannesburg Black BookJuly 2024 During my several months in Johannesburg, I discovered a city often overlooked by tourists and underserved by travel... http://flaviehalais.com/Rio-address-book Tue, 31 Jan 2023 16:55:43 +0000 Flavie Halais 437548 Home Rio de Janeiro — my address book January 2023 I don’t consider myself an expert on Rio de Janeiro. I’ve been there three times over ten years, both for work and leisure, and each time only got a glimpse of this massive metropolis. But I was lucky enough to be guided by locals who showed me their favourite places, away from major landmarks. And I also discovered a few spots during long walks through the Zona Sul (Rio’s south side) which have since become some of my personal favourites. It can be hard to find reliable resources online while planning a trip to Rio. While the city attracted massive attention in the leadup to the 2016 Olympics, most travel guides haven’t been updated since then, and online blogs mostly cover tourist hotspots anyway. This is why I’ve decided to list my favourite addresses for those who may want to explore the city beyond its major landmarks. This resource is not exhaustive—this is just how I like to spend time whenever I get the chance to visit. <img width="4896" height="3264" width_o="4896" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/c75ad81dcb34f1682daf8b526f48ff18157cf26c8dbf1119603051664edf3cfd/FHalais-2022-10-30-DSCF6507.jpg" data-mid="1261596" border="0" data-scale="100"/>The view from Parque Eduardo Guinle in Laranjeiras The basics Here’s something about me: I don’t like the beach. I hate sand and catching sunburns, no matter how careful I am about applying sunscreen. And so, while I appreciate hanging out around Copacabana and Ipanema—especially to catch the sunset at Arpoador—I always stay in Glória, a middle-class neighbourhood bustling with street life, juice bars and botecos (local bars.) From there, I can easily catch the subway or walk to must-see areas like Santa Teresa, Centro, Flamengo, Laranjeiras and the beach.I speak Portuguese fluently and that’s helped tremendously, as many Cariocas don’t speak English. Learning some basics, including how to order food or get your groceries, will save you time and avoid frustration. As for when is the best time to visit, I think each season has its pros and cons. Local summer is when the&nbsp;Carnaval takes place, but the temperature is at its highest (walking up those hills on a scorching, humid day takes a toll) while winter and mid-season can get unpredictably rainy. You just need to be ready to adjust your schedule based on the whims of the weather. <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/5ba26059b9882c92956347c13cdc695c2f75d5f312ee485cfa8dd52162c61dbd/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-23-DSCF6448.jpg" data-mid="1261598" border="0" />Near the Pedra do Sal in the Saúde neighbourhood <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/eea98de9893967b5cd027ffc904189203c90bde06ebbb87e5b4142fb8e44cf94/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-23-DSCF6452.jpg" data-mid="1261599" border="0" /> Art Museu de arte do Rio Praça Mauá, 5 - Centro Great exhibitions featuring Brazilian artists or tackling complex topics related to Brazil’s history. Museu do Amanhã Praça Mauá, 1 - Centro Science museum designed by Santiago Calatrava, showcasing multiple exhibitions exploring the future. Instituto Moreira Salles (IMS) R. Marquês de São Vicente, 476 - Gávea Contemporary art centre featuring exhibitions, films and live shows. Closed for renovations starting in April 2023. Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) R. Primeiro de Março, 66 - Centro Cultural centre showing free exhibitions by local and international artists. Open late – great afterwork activity. The building houses an interesting, yet overpriced gift store. Museu da Chácara do Céu R. Murtinho Nobre, 93 - Santa Teresa Located in a modernist house designed by Wladimir Alves de Souza, the museum holds temporary exhibitions and showcases a collection of artworks, rare books, furniture and decorative pieces. Parque das Ruinas R. Murtinho Nobre, 169 - Santa Teresa Both a public park and a cultural center, the Parque das Ruinas holds live concerts and art performances, and offers a stunning view of the Centro and the Guanabara Bay. It’s built on the ruins of an old mansion. <img width="4032" height="3024" width_o="4032" height_o="3024" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/8bdb227d3a00e4cb9ab22ecc39c2628b4ffc4c9d36e02bad6e0b25913094d19a/IMG_1150.jpg" data-mid="1261601" border="0" />Inside the CCBB Eating Among the first things on my list when I get in town is to get some fresh juice at one of the many juice bars. Make sure to order com pouco açúcar (with a little bit of sugar) otherwise your glucose levels will jump sky-high. Many tourists don’t know that you can order a mix of several fruits, but you can definitely have fun experimenting. Next on the list is to get some real açaí na tigela. Careful here as most juice bars will only serve some version of this delicacy from the state of Pará. The original dish should be served in a bowl with your choice of toppings, and have an extra creamy texture. Confeitaria Colombo R. Gonçalves Dias, 32 - Centro Historic confeitaria (coffee house) founded in 1894, with old-school service and incredible decor. Casa Cavé R. Sete de Setembro, 133 - Centro Rio’s oldest confeitaria, famous for its ice creams and pastries. Adega Flor de Coimbra R. Teotônio Regadas, 34 - Centro Old-school Portuguese restaurant located right by the famous Escadaria Selarón and serving simple, fulfilling meals. Casa Omolokum R. Tia Ciata, 51 - Saúde Located up the stairs from the historic Pedra do Sal, Casa Omolokum serves generous Afro-Brazilian dishes, often with live music. Bar do Mineiro R. Paschoal Carlos Magno, 99 - Santa Teresa Typical restaurant and bar in Santa Teresa, known for its feijoada (a traditional black bean stew with pork of beef meat and vegetables). Cultivar R. Paschoal Carlos Magno, 124 - Santa Teresa Small food joint in Santa Teresa serving amazing paõ de queijo (cheese bread, typically consumed at breakfast) and açaí na tigela (açaí bowls). Gregora Arte Café R. Cândido Mendes, 98 - Glória Definitely not a tourist destination, this friendly restaurant and café makes me feel like a local when I stay in the neighbourhood. Portugo Various locations New retail chain specializing in pastéis de nata (small custard tarts, originally from Portugal). They’re delicious. Tacacá do Norte R. Barão do Flamengo 35 R - Flamengo Unpretentious food joint serving dishes from the state of Pará, including the city’s best açaí na tigela. <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/5d24cde5e9f13ae09e235d913e3856c8a3619404d502421ee58e83c288297b9a/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-30-DSCF6501.jpg" data-mid="1261603" border="0" />Tacacá do Norte <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/b979a36ecbb84e449c618ef4b30ea47ec6c4e3352392ec96c5f01f62f5e146c0/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-23-DSCF6467.jpg" data-mid="1261605" border="0" />Casa Omolokum Drinking and going out Lapa is where much of Rio’s nightlife is taking place, and while it’s worth checking out, these days I’d much rather spend my evenings at a boteco. This Brazilian version of the pub typically serves a mix of tapas-like dishes (petiscos) with local beers. It’s easy to find the most popular ones–most of them extend onto the sidewalk, so you’ll spot the crowds from afar. Alternatively, you can find some live music or other type of outdoor gathering, and get yourself a drink from one of the local street vendors. There is often no clear delineation between daytime and nighttime activities. Many restaurants also function as bars, and afternoon feiras tend to turn into block parties with live music, street food and mobile alcohol carts. Learning some classics of the Brazilian music canon is advisable, as crowds frequently break into songs when live bands are involved, and joining is so much fun. Bar do Serginho R. Dias de Barros, 2A - Santa TeresaSimple yet popular neighbourhood boteco in Santa Teresa.Britan Bar - Bar do Zé R. Barão de Guaratiba, 49 - GlóriaHidden from the main street, not many locals know about this spot, yet it’s always packed. The place is tiny and you may need to sit on the sidewalk, but that’s how I like it. Trapiche Gamboa R. Sacadura Cabral, 155 - Praça MauáArguably the best venue to listen to live samba music, located in a historic building in the heart of Rio’s former dockland area, where millions of enslaved people disembarked from their transatlantic voyage between the 16th and 19th centuries. <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/3ac7e181f5bb7c397e5fb51c156afe99e1f6e30709c363e50cdb62a40cf2d18a/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-30-DSCF6492.jpg" data-mid="1261604" border="0" />Açaí na tigela <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/7f28c735374325a2454f710c7c537ee1e29e9772398d732201aa00f470b79a48/Halais-IMG_1118.jpg" data-mid="1261616" border="0" />Adega Flor de Coimbra <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/47df00b98261498e3d0515353901d1e05c89f2028736c34e0f00e52082bec589/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-31-DSCF6610.jpg" data-mid="1261613" border="0" /> On the beach <img width="1600" height="2000" width_o="1600" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/9ca1b07b2678193bf63f50e18bf96dba9a495ed1f00b91942ba3929bfbc25b3b/Halais-FHalais-2022-10-31-DSCF6574-copie.jpg" data-mid="1261614" border="0" /> Sightseeing I’ll let you learn about tourist hotspots from mainstream travel guides. Below is my own list of favourite ways to spend time in Rio. Centro and Pedra do Sal Rio’s historic centre used to have a bad rap for its high level of crime and its general state of disuse, but the situation has improved over recent years, particularly after the massive renovation project of the old port. Make sure to stop by Pedra do Sal, a historic landmark for afro-carioca culture. It hosts live samba groups most nights (avoid Mondays, which are getting too crowded). Cemitério de São João Batista Located on the edge of the trendy Botafogo neighbourhood, this beautiful cemetery allows you to take a break from the intensity of the city and delve into Rio’s history. Feira da Glória Every Sunday, this stretch of the street just seconds away from the Glória subway station neighbourhood hosts a farmer’s market with live music and street food. Once the stalls are all packed up, the street fair essentially turns into a nighttime block party. What a great way to end the weekend (another feira worth checking out is the Feira da General Glicério in Laranjeiras, taking place on Saturdays on R. Gen. Glicério). Praça São Salvador There’s always something going on in this square in the heart of the Flamengo neighbourhood. Just show up on a Saturday night and see what happens. Parque Eduardo Guinle by Lucio Costa This housing complex, completed in 1954, was built in the gardens of a neoclassical palace in the Laranjeiras neighbourhood when the site fell under government ownership. The six buildings are privately owned, but it’s possible to wander through the ground level and marvel at this lesser-known jewel of modernist architecture. Parque Lage This stunning palace and adjacent park nestled at the foot of the Corcovado hill now house a visual arts school and an overpriced café. Sadly the place tends to be taken over by Instagrammers and it’s become a bit more difficult to truly enjoy the space. A trail starting at the back of the palace goes all the way to the famous Christ the Redeemer statue through the Tijuca forest. Jardim Botânico Even though nature is always present in the city—which was literally built on a jungle—Rio’s botanical gardens are still worth a detour, especially if you’re looking for a quiet escape without leaving the Zona Sul. If you have time, stroll through the adjacent and very chic neighbourhood of Gávea and continue to Instituto Moreira Salles, where you’ll find contemporary exhibits and a cozy café (IMS is closed for renovations starting in April 2023). Beaches of the Zona Sul Rio is of course famous for its beaches, but there are rules to know before you go. From Leme to Copacabana, the beaches are divided by 12 postos, each of them catering to a certain demographics. Some attract families, others are popular hangout spots for favela kids. For me, Posto 9 is where it’s at (and it’s LGBTQ-friendly). That said, you do have to watch the sunset from Arpoador (Posto 7) at least once—the experience is unforgettable. You can also have a drink at one of the kiosks lining the sidewalk and enjoy the sound of crashing waves late into the evening. <img width="3264" height="4896" width_o="3264" height_o="4896" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/5dc979601c10ac4bf2613df6c8e3d31d43ac2c052a8e8449f20714897aefb8eb/FHalais-2022-10-30-DSCF6510.jpg" data-mid="1261607" border="0" />Parque Eduardo Guinle by Lucio Costa <img width="3264" height="4896" width_o="3264" height_o="4896" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/f36aef4d34cc15d5b04bc74c7e6094bfab3bf1e3d14246e2f51618649c2ed16a/FHalais-2022-10-30-DSCF6503.jpg" data-mid="1261606" border="0" /> All text and photos by Flavie Halais Home Home Rio de Janeiro — my address book January 2023 I don’t consider myself an expert on Rio de Janeiro. I’ve been there three times over ten years, both... http://flaviehalais.com/Photography Fri, 14 Jun 2019 02:57:19 +0000 Flavie Halais 327447 Home <img width="2801" height="2001" width_o="2801" height_o="2001" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/c0718203df3cb350b918cb5bcd272a887cfc985e4965f6bb81f68c44201bb272/2017_DSCF7566_halais.jpg" data-mid="731793" border="0" /> <img width="4896" height="3264" width_o="4896" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/02ba512fa77e32e51f261fbdc2ed08a4e9865232b40aa2e7dbbffb14e5156ffa/2017_DSCF4419_halais.jpg" data-mid="731784" border="0" /> <img width="3130" height="2087" width_o="3130" height_o="2087" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/784ebe27d5f5e13c4f5ced1a51070859cd5c625e1f14791b04f976104cbbf80f/2017_DSCF8375_halais.jpg" data-mid="731797" border="0" /> <img width="2387" height="3580" width_o="2387" height_o="3580" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/25da145d5724f63ce3455a01b50e81b0aa6ae48c0c8bbfc69415a07977c7ddc7/2018_DSCF2725_halais.jpg" data-mid="731813" border="0" data-scale="75"/> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/b6ba66d4438dc96dd8dadfb381d4700083773a4d9ca1ade87da005011e6fbbb6/IMG_5568.jpg" data-mid="731818" border="0" /> <img width="4896" height="3264" width_o="4896" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/e7b12b2bc0fb0d469d8cdf54900315ef2d4fd7315e12fd4fe51ecc9594150d6f/2017_DSCF5977_halais.jpg" data-mid="731823" border="0" /> <img width="4896" height="3264" width_o="4896" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/7e7b48ac1572d13e29ae03f308d98592fab10ff05b4a99f2f12ad59cca6b02bc/2017_DSCF9953_halais.jpg" data-mid="731808" border="0" /> <img width="2176" height="3264" width_o="2176" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/211dbb6a13d71e0a5fb9a66da52a5655aa1149538bd65d664729cf4c9e29883a/2017_DSCF7214_halais.jpg" data-mid="731794" border="0" data-scale="80"/> <img width="2366" height="1577" width_o="2366" height_o="1577" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/bf6712bbb1d28e8427655d9446a96f3521ea721c4dc1f9899be809e3f9a6c347/2017_DSCF9285_halais.jpg" data-mid="731803" border="0" /><img width="2331" height="3263" width_o="2331" height_o="3263" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/1c9f74992ee1b83caa28b0117041b47fd50d099143fb85cdd3b968d8f71d9d65/2018_DSCF2383_halais.jpg" data-mid="731810" border="0" data-scale="78"/> <img width="4896" height="3264" width_o="4896" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/e2c34c012b76ef569d0b77dd14bd6dadac7d9681e67b2db10c729cfbd87b2ec0/2018_DSCF2706_halais.jpg" data-mid="731807" border="0" /> <img width="4042" height="2695" width_o="4042" height_o="2695" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/83e4960d334d787f4560ae99e2d67455e4918086e1de9771ff99f41edc93daad/2018_DSCF2810_halais.jpg" data-mid="731812" border="0" /> <img width="3264" height="3264" width_o="3264" height_o="3264" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/7d514734f31519bd2bbc2e4147dd1f7fea290ab30e1563b1b69ce78e7f8a0977/DSCF1861.jpg" data-mid="731820" border="0" data-scale="87"/> Home http://flaviehalais.com/Home-Page Mon, 30 Nov 2015 23:14:12 +0000 Flavie Halais 326409 Flavie Halais is a journalist &amp; strategist based in Montreal, Canada. Flavie Halais est journaliste et stratège, basée à Montréal, Canada. <img width="1996" height="3000" width_o="1996" height_o="3000" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/da897fb53c0bbf6e0cd0ad7a5737beda82d023b700f6937ab74d2b149bc0dc73/Flavie-parVAL-6657.jpg" data-mid="1356039" border="0" data-scale="33"/> Flavie’s journalism work has appeared in WIRED, The Guardian, Le Monde Afrique, Devex, El País and Jeune Afrique among other publications.&nbsp;She has reported from a range of countries including Brazil, Haiti, Colombia, Rwanda, Kenya and Uganda, diving into complex topics such as refugee crises, global health, urban governance and impact investing.&nbsp; Her project Refugee Economics, backed by the European Journalism Centre, looked at the impact of forced displacement on local economies in East Africa. In 2019-2020 she was a contributing writer with WIRED US, covering cities. Her full portfolio is accessible on Muckrack. Flavie supports decolonial practices in journalism and storytelling. Having developped post-traumatic stress disorder while on assignment, she has spent the past few years educating herself on trauma-informed practices and weaves them into her work, advocating for more relational, trust-based and power-shifting approaches. She is the editor of The Guide To Better Conversations About Ethical Storytelling. Les articles de Flavie ont été publiés dans WIRED, The Guardian, Le Monde Afrique, Devex, El País et Jeune Afrique, entre autres publications. Depuis le Brésil, Haïti, la Colombie, le Rwanda, le Kenya ou encore l’Ouganda, elle a couvert des sujets tels que les crises migratoires, la santé mondiale, la gouvernance urbaine et l’investissement d’impact. Elle est l’instigatrice du projet Refugee Economics, analysant l’impact économique des flux de réfugiés en Afrique de l’Est (avec le soutien du European Journalism Centre). En 2019-2020 elle a été chroniqueuse pour l’édition US du magazine WIRED. Son portfolio complet est disponible sur Muckrack. Flavie soutient l’émergence de pratiques décoloniales en journalisme et storytelling. Ayant développé un syndrôme de stress post-traumatique en reportage, elle s’éduque depuis plusieurs années à des pratiques tenant comptes des traumas, et préconise des approches relationnelles, basées sur la confiance et favorisant l’équité. Elle est l’éditrice du Guide To Better Conversations About Ethical Storytelling. Strategy &amp; consultingIn parallel to her journalism work, Flavie started consulting for mission-driven organizations, bringing a sought-after multidisciplinary background to projects spanning brand &amp; content strategy, audience growth &amp; engagement, cultural insights and crisis management. In 2020 she launched her consultancy&nbsp;Delfina to consolidate her offering. Clients and accounts: WSP, Agropur, SAQ, Danone, Metro, M&amp;C Saatchi World Services, UNHCR Innovation, Will&amp;Way, Réseau Mentorat, Fondation Montréal Inc., Goalcast, Global Vision, Torinit, UNICEF Canada. Stratégie et conseil En parallèle à son travail journalistique, Flavie collabore également avec des marques et organismes animés par une mission. Elle prête son regard multidisciplinaire à des projets en stratégie de marque et contenu, engagement des audiences, tendances culturelles et gestion de crise. En 2020 elle a consolidé son offre de services sous l’en-tête Delfina. Clients et comptes: WSP, Agropur, SAQ, Danone, Metro, M&amp;C Saatchi World Services, UNHCR Innovation, Will&amp;Way, Réseau Mentorat, Fondation Montréal Inc., Goalcast, Global Vision, Torinit, UNICEF Canada. <img width="960" height="1200" width_o="960" height_o="1200" src_o="https://cortex.persona.co/t/original/i/cd685bd96269ffebee6614cec1165f7bb87587e9d0b2831759f56733597c6e97/FHalais-2023-10-15-DSCF7593.jpg" data-mid="1356040" border="0" data-scale="35"/>Pretoria, 2023 TrainingFlavie holds a B.A. in Journalism from Concordia University and an undergraduate degree in History from Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne. She has received training in crisis reporting from the DART Center for Journalism and Trauma in New York, in brand strategy from Infopresse, in multiplatform project management from INIS, and multimedia storytelling from Mediastorm. She completed a nine-month course on trauma healing from Sounds True, as well as numerous short courses with leading somatic healing educators including Resmaa Menakem, Kimberly Ann Johnson and Magdalena Weinstein. Originally from France, Flavie now lives in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. She is bilingual in English and fluent in Brazilian Portuguese and Spanish. FormationsFlavie détient un Baccalauréat en Journalisme de l’université Concordia et une licence d’Histoire de l’université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne. Elle a suivi des formations en journalisme de crise au DART Center for Journalism and Trauma à New York, en stratégie de marque à Infopresse, en gestion de projets multiplateformes à l’INIS, et en storytelling multimédia à Mediastorm. Elle a complété une formation de neuf mois en guérison des traumas avec Sounds True, ainsi que plusieurs programmes courts auprès de formateur.ices en approches somatiques dont Resmaa Menakem, Kimberly Ann Johnson et Magdalena Weinstein. Française d’origine, Flavie réside à présent à Montréal, Québec, Canada. Elle est bilingue en anglais, et parle couramment le portugais brésilien et l’espagnol. Side projectsJohannesburg Black Book Delfina x speaklow travel guide to NYC Rio de Janeiro address bookPhotography DJing Projets parallèlesCarnet d’adresses à Johannesburg Guide de voyage à New York Carnet d’adresses à Rio de Janeiro Photographie DJing Contact flavie[at]flaviehalais.com Please do not send PR pitches. All of those emails and messages will be deleted.I live in Tiohtià:ke/Montreal on unceded Indigenous land and recognize the Kanien’kehá:ka Nation as the historical custodians of these lands and waters.  &nbsp;  Contactflavie[at]flaviehalais.com Je ne reçois pas de communiqués de presse. Ces demandes sont automatiquement supprimées.Je réside à Tiohtià:ke/Montréal en territoire autochtone non cédé, et reconnais la nation Kanien'kehá:ka comme gardienne ancestrale de ces terres et ces eaux.  &nbsp;  Flavie Halais is a journalist &amp; strategist based in Montreal, Canada. Flavie Halais est journaliste et stratège, basée à Montréal, Canada. ...